美度舵手表Mido领航者系列美度指挥官幻影蓝盘

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发条鱼原创翻译

Mido calls this newer entrant into their Multifort watch collection the Mido Multifort Escape. Escape from what? I"m not sure. Perhaps Mido is trying to use this "artistically pre-aged" collection to suggest that its theme is an escape from the norm, or this is meant to be some manner of adventure or vacation watch... or better yet, we can simply ignore the name and focus on what is an increasingly positive trend for watches like this coming from the Swatch Group.

美度把这个全新产品并入舵手系列，并取名叫穿越者腕表。穿越什么？ 我也不知道。也许Mido试图用这个“富有艺术气息”的系列名字来暗示这一系列表款与常规的舵手系列腕表是不一样的，或许这是专为某种冒险或旅行打造的腕表......好吧，我们最好还是先不要探讨系列名称了，还是来关注这个斯沃琪集团旗下的腕表品牌又带来了什么惊喜的改变呢？

Perhaps no company is better suited to reeling in watch retail prices than the Swatch Group. With so much vertical integration at their disposal, and given the fact that they make their own movements (ETA), Swatch Group brands like Mido are doing the right thing when it comes to both pricing and design. Between brands like Mido, Hamilton, Certina, Rado, Tissot, and Longines, the Swatch Group has been able to make relatively exciting mechanical men"s watches for under $1,000. It once used to be that the sub $1,000 price was the "street price" (a discount from retail), but as brands work to narrow retail and street price discrepancies, we are seeing a lot more realistic (for our market) retail pricing.

也许没有一家公司比斯沃琪集团更适合卷入手表零售价格。 由于有了这么多的垂直整合，并且考虑到他们自产机芯（ETA），所以像Mido这样的斯沃琪旗下品牌在定价和设计方面都做得很出色。 在美度，汉米尔顿，雪铁纳，雷达，天梭和浪琴等品牌之间，斯沃琪集团已经能够制造出价格低于1000美元的相对令人兴奋的机械男表。 在过去，1,000美元以下的价格是“场外价格”（打折价），但随着品牌努力缩小零售价和场外价格的差异，我们看到越来越多符合实际的（对于我们的市场来说）零售定价。

With an automatic Swiss movement, competent dial design and detailing, and a PVD-coated steel case meant to look a bit "nostalgic" and weather-beaten, the Mido Multifort Escape isn"t just priced decently, but it is also properly targeted toward a younger audience. I"m not ready to say that the brand as a whole has turned itself around, but there are an increasing number of promising things coming from Mido.

凭借着瑞士自动机芯，精湛的表盘设计和细节设计以及PVD涂层不锈钢做旧处理的表壳，美度舵手穿越者腕表不仅价格体面，而且还在适当的时机指向年轻受众。还不能说美度这个品牌已经成功转型，但是美度良性发展是有目共睹的。

We see a lot of this from Swatch Group brands, where individual products here and there start to make a lot of sense in both design, technicality, and pricing. It is as though the right product team got their hands on it, and the brand uses something like the Multifort Escape as an experiment. What is still missing however, is any real attempt at creating a storytelling narrative around the watch. Mido (like many of its colleague brands), still banks on watch retail staff to tell these stories, which simply doesn"t happen very often these days. So, for now, you and I can guess together what sentiments and themes Mido is ultimately trying to suggest with the four current versions of the Multifort Escape watch.

我们从斯沃琪集团的品牌中看到了很多这样的产品，其中个别产品在设计，技术性和定价方面已经开始有点看头了。这就好像正确的产品团队已经掌握了它的玩法，品牌选择舵手穿越腕表来做这个实验。不过，不足的地方就是没能围绕手表创造一个故事线。 美度（它的很多系列产品都是这样），都是依靠零售商来为产品讲故事，不过现在已经很少这样了。所以，现在，我们可以一起猜测美度将最终用当前四款舵手穿越手表来表达什么感受和主题。

On that note, the four current versions of the Mido Multifort Escape are the reference M032.607.36.050.09 with the black dial (with orange and green accents), the M032.607.36.050.00 with the dark blue dial, and the M032.607.36.090.00 with the olive green dial. The reference M032.607.36.050.99 with the black and orange dial is a bit different because it has an American-made Horween leather strap. The reason for this particular Horween connection is related to Mido"s newer relationship to football in the United States as Horween makes American football leather. The Multifort Escape Horween costs about $200 more (because of the strap, actually two straps) and is known as the Mido Multifort Escape Horween. Each of these four models will appeal to its own specific wearers, but aside from the dial and straps, the watches in the Multifort Escape collection are the same.

就此而言，美度舵手的四个当前版本是M032.607.36.050.09，黑色表盘（带有橙色和绿色设计元素，M032.607.36.050.00（深蓝色表盘）以及M032.607.36 .090.00（橄榄绿表盘）。带有黑色和橙色表盘的M032.607.36.050.99有点不同，因为它有一个美国制造的霍尔文皮革表带。与霍尔文做这样一个合作是因为美度美国橄榄球的赞助关系，而霍尔文正是美式橄榄球皮革的制造商。这款霍尔文合作款售价比其他款多200美元（就因为这根表带），而且这款表还被称为美度舵手系列Horween霍尔文腕表。这四个款式中的每一款腕表都会吸引其特定的佩戴者，但除了表盘和表带之外，这几款表都是一样的。

At 44mm wide, this is among the larger Multifort three-hand watches out there, but with its mostly vintage looks, the large case size is more fun and stylish than it is "too large." Mido was clearly going for an aged look, trying to play on the notion that certain classic watch designs also look cool when they"re presented in an "aged style." Yes, this is pure fashion, but the watches do offer the appeal of a classic watch, with a very real emphasis on modern fashion considerations.

这款腕表尺寸都是44mm，在舵手系列的大三针表款中是很显眼的。由于这几款手表的外观都是复古风，所以做成大尺寸还是会更有范儿、更时尚，而不是单纯的大而笨重。Mido显然是想要腕表呈现老旧的外观，试图发挥某些经典手表设计在“复古风格”中呈现出来的看起来很酷的概念。 没错，就是纯粹的跟上潮流。不过这些手表确实呈现了一款经典复古手表的吸引力，考虑到了如今大火的复古风潮。

The 44mm wide case is 11.88mm thick and the lugs are 23mm wide. That means the straps are 23mm wide, which makes them a bit of an odd size as most strap widths are 22mm or 24mm wide. I am just saying this for the people who like swapping out straps on their watches regularly. The case is water resistant to 100m and is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal that has AR-coating on both sides. Yes, there is still some glare due to the dome of the crystal.

手表厚度为11.88mm，表耳间距为23毫米,这意味着表带的宽度是23mm，而常规的表带宽度是22毫米或24毫米宽，当然我只是针对喜欢定期更换表带的朋友说这个问题。 表壳防水深度达100米，并配有两面带AR涂层的圆顶蓝宝石水晶表镜。 因为表镜是圆顶设计，所以还有一些眩光。

One of the appealing design elements shared in many of the Multifort watches is the C?tes de Genève-style (polished stripes) decoration on the dial in the form of the vertical stripes. Geneva stripes are a common form of decoration on mechanical movement surfaces. It is much less common to see this on watch dials. Mido decided a while back to use vertical Geneva-style stripes on the dial of Multifort watches, and I think it continues to work well. That mixed with the very easy to see lume-painted Arabic hour numerals and hands make the dial attractive and very legible. I also like how the hour hand is slightly different from the minute hand, so that legibility is further emphasized.

其中一个很引人注目的设计元素在舵手系列的手表中都能看到，就是表盘上的条纹形式的日内瓦打磨（抛光条纹）装饰。 日内瓦条纹是机芯表面打磨常见的装饰形式。在表盘上倒很少见这一设计。Mido选择在舵手穿越手表的表盘上装饰垂直日内瓦条纹。 这一设计搭配醒目的夜光阿拉伯数字时标和指针使表盘有吸引力，非常清晰明了。我也喜欢时针与分针在设计上的细微差别，以便进一步强调易读性。

Inside the watch is the Swiss ETA caliber C07.611 4Hz automatic with about two days of power reserve. Many people still think of the 28XX series of movements, but the C series of ETA movements came out a few years ago despite limited use in watches. These newer era movements are larger, and thus intended to go in watches for today"s size tastes.

手表搭载的是瑞士ETA C07.611 4Hz自动机芯，动力储备大约有两天。 许多人仍然能想到28XX系列的机芯，但是E系列的C字打头的机芯早在几年前就出现了，只是在手表采用的比较少。 这些经过改进的机芯尺寸更大，因此更适合现在新出的大尺寸表款。

As a mostly classic watch with "modern" and "youthful" design elements, the Mido Multifort Escape collection isn"t a bad choice for those compelled by the design. It"s got all the traits of a decent Swiss watch when it comes to ergonomics and a decent movement but the design doesn"t feel stuffy or stuck solidly in "yesterday." Retail price for the Mido Multifort Escape watch is $890 USD, and the retail price for the Multifort Escape Horween is $1,090 USD.

作为一枚年轻化的符合时代潮流的经典款手表，美度舵手穿越系列对那些被其设计吸引的人来说是个不错的选择。当讲到机芯的性能，它也具备瑞表应有的体面。而且设计也不再沉闷，没有停留在以前的古板设计止步不前。 普通舵手穿越款手表零售价为890美元，配有霍尔文表带的那款零售价为1090美元。（发条鱼：普通款国内售价为6900元）

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